Hyaluronic acid and skin health

Main

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a naturally occurring substance in the human body that plays a vital role in maintaining skin hydration and overall health. It is a powerful humectant, meaning it can attract and retain moisture, making it an excellent ingredient for skincare products. HA can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, which helps keep the skin plump, supple, and youthful-looking. By reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL), hyaluronic acid helps to maintain the skin's moisture barrier. For example, when applied topically, hyaluronic acid can penetrate the skin and improve its moisture content, leading to a more radiant and healthy complexion.

While hyaluronic acid is generally safe and well-tolerated, there are a few restrictions to keep in mind. People with sensitive skin may experience mild irritation or redness when using HA products, especially if the formulation contains other potentially irritating ingredients. Additionally, those with a history of allergic reactions to HA fillers should patch-test topical products before applying them to the entire face. It's always best to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or underlying skin conditions before incorporating new products into your skincare routine.

Terms

• Acid: A substance that donates protons (hydrogen ions) in a chemical reaction. In skincare, acids are often used for exfoliation and pH adjustment.
  Example: Citric acid is a common ingredient in skincare products, used to adjust the pH and provide mild exfoliation.

• Humectant: A substance that attracts and retains moisture from the environment or from within the skin.
  Example: When you apply a hyaluronic acid serum to your face, it acts as a humectant, drawing moisture into your skin and helping to keep it hydrated throughout the day.

• Transepidermal water loss (TEWL): The amount of water that passively evaporates through the skin to the external environment.
  Example: When your skin's moisture barrier is compromised, you may experience increased TEWL, leading to dry, dehydrated skin that feels tight and uncomfortable.

• Molecular weight: The mass of one molecule of a substance, calculated by adding the atomic masses of each atom in the molecule.
  Example: If you have sensitive skin, you may benefit from using a hyaluronic acid serum with a lower molecular weight, as it can penetrate the skin more easily without causing irritation.

Analogy

Think of hyaluronic acid as a sponge for your skin. Just like a sponge can absorb and hold water, HA can attract and retain moisture in your skin. When you apply a product containing hyaluronic acid, it's like giving your skin a tall glass of water to drink, helping it stay hydrated and look its best. Imagine your skin as a desert, dry and parched, but when you apply hyaluronic acid, it's like a refreshing oasis, providing the moisture your skin craves.

Misconception

Many people believe that applying hyaluronic acid topically will automatically lead to plump, hydrated skin. However, if the environment is dry or if there isn't enough moisture for the HA to absorb, it may actually draw water from the deeper layers of the skin, leading to further dehydration. To avoid this, it's essential to use HA in conjunction with other hydrating ingredients and to seal in the moisture with an occlusive agent, such as a facial oil or a rich moisturizer.

For example, if you live in a dry climate and apply a hyaluronic acid serum without following up with a moisturizer, you may find that your skin feels drier than before. This is because the HA is pulling moisture from your skin to the surface, where it quickly evaporates. To prevent this, always use a moisturizer after applying HA, and consider using a humidifier in your room to add moisture to the air.

History

1. 1934: Karl Meyer and John Palmer isolate hyaluronic acid for the first time from the vitreous humor of cow eyes.

2. 1942: Endre Balazs applies for a patent to use hyaluronic acid as a substitute for egg white in bakery products.

3. 1986: The first hyaluronic acid-based dermal filler, Hylaform, is developed.

4. 2003: The FDA approves Restylane, a non-animal stabilized hyaluronic acid filler for the treatment of facial wrinkles.

5. 2010s-present: Hyaluronic acid becomes a staple ingredient in skincare products, with numerous brands incorporating it into serums, moisturizers, and masks. Advancements in HA technology lead to the development of multi-molecular weight formulas for enhanced efficacy. Research continues to explore the potential benefits of HA in wound healing, tissue regeneration, and the treatment of various skin conditions.

How to use it

1. A person with dry, mature skin notices fine lines and wrinkles appearing on their face. They decide to incorporate a hyaluronic acid serum into their skincare routine to help plump up their skin and reduce the appearance of these signs of aging. By applying the serum twice daily and following up with a rich moisturizer, they notice an improvement in their skin's hydration levels and a reduction in the depth of their wrinkles over time.

2. Someone with oily, acne-prone skin is hesitant to use a hyaluronic acid product, fearing that it may clog their pores or exacerbate their breakouts. However, after learning that HA is non-comedogenic and can actually help regulate sebum production, they decide to give it a try. They choose a lightweight, oil-free HA serum and apply it once daily before their moisturizer. To their surprise, their skin becomes more balanced and less prone to midday shininess.

3. An individual with sensitive, reactive skin has struggled to find a hydrating product that doesn't cause redness or irritation. After researching the benefits of hyaluronic acid and its gentle nature, they patch-test a fragrance-free HA serum on a small area of their face. When no adverse reactions occur, they begin using the serum daily, gradually increasing the frequency to twice a day. They notice a significant improvement in their skin's hydration and comfort levels, without any sensitivity or flare-ups.

Facts

• The human body contains about 15 grams of hyaluronic acid, with the highest concentrations found in the skin, eyes, and joints.

• Hyaluronic acid has been used in medicine since the 1970s, primarily for eye surgery and wound healing.

• Some studies suggest that consuming foods rich in hyaluronic acid, such as bone broth and starchy root vegetables, may help improve skin hydration and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

• Hyaluronic acid fillers are among the most popular non-surgical cosmetic treatments, with millions of procedures performed worldwide each year.

• The effects of topical hyaluronic acid on skin hydration and elasticity have been demonstrated in numerous clinical studies, with improvements seen in as little as two weeks of regular use.